Arunachal Pradesh is home to more than 26 tribes, each with their own set of traditions and cultural practices. One common thread linking all of these tribal communities is the art of weaving. Not only is weaving a part of a fabric of their communities, it is also one of the main sources of their livelihood. Each tribe has their own set of distinctive patterns and designs representing them and their own. Cotton and wool are two of the main fabrics used in weaving. Fibers from the bark of trees, goat fur and sometimes even human hair are used by certain tribes. As with most north-eastern tribal communities, the women are the expert weavers and are expected to weave clothing for their families. A popular folk tale tells us that the sacred art of weaving was learnt in a dream from the goddess Podi Barbi. The main textile patterns woven by the tribal communities are mostly geometric in shape with various motifs. The zig-zag, zemorphic, floral and angular patterns are more or less in geometric form. Simple stripes and straight lines are the most common patterns, and colour combinations and pairing contrasting colours are very popular.
The Adi, the Apatani and the Mishmi tribes are three of the most populous communities that contribute a major chunk to the textile industries of Arunachal Pradesh. The Adis concentrate on simple straight lines. They go for a variety of patterns like multicoloured stripes on a black or white background. Black thread is used with other colours to achieve various shades. The Apatanis also prefer straight lines. While the patterns woven in this tribe are nearly always horizontal and comprised of straight lines, the special priests’ shawl features some curved patterns like spirals and wavy lines. Some shawls also feature a herringbone pattern. The diamond pattern is also commonplace in their weaving technique. The Mishmi tribe, however, practice the incorporation of more elaborate weaving patterns, though the use of straight lines and bands are still predominant. These straight line and band motifs are sometimes woven as borders for more complex and intricate patterns or they are also used as the full pattern. Mishmi tribes of various locales have their own personal weaving pattern. But on the whole, the diamond, grid and aeroplane patterns are woven more by the Mishmi tribes than any others. Other popular tribes like the Wanchos, Hrussos, Sherdukpens, Tuensungs, Pailibos and the Singphos have patterns and weaving methods unique to their tribes and their people’s history.
Apart from weaving, another important part the textile business of Arunachal Pradesh is known for is embroidery. The artisans exhibit a great versatility in creation of embroidered patterns. Embroidery is also one of the main sources of income for the communities. The designs may be inspired by history and ancient folklore or they may be contemporary in nature like geometric patterns. Apart from the traditional thread embroidery, ornamentation like tikris and beads are also used to embellish garments and fabric. Dress materials are made using the jaali or net embroidery which feature mostly geometric or floral shapes.
