NorthEast Textile - Assam

Handloom weaving is not only the lifeblood but also an integral aspect of north-eastern culture and identity. This article focuses on the culture of weaving in the state of Assam. Weavers are present both in the tribal and non-tribal populations of Assam, more so the tribal populations . Tribes like  the Boro-Kachari, Dimasa Cachari, Mishing, Mech, Karbi Anglong and Lalung are all part of the community of weavers. Textiles are exclusively the woman’s area of expertise as the tribes believe that partaking in an effeminate job like weaving would result in loss of virility for the men. This belief still holds good in many parts of Assam. The women weavers painstakingly and deftly create textures and patterns symbolic of the cultural practices, history and identity of their tribe.A loin-loom is used for domestic purpose weaving in the Assamese lowlands and the slightly complex and high-end fly-shuttle looms are used for commercial weaving.

 The patterns generally woven by the weavers of Assam showcase human figures, flowers, birds, animals and diamonds, with the designs being symbolic of the different ethnic groups and tribes of the area. Geometric patterns embellished with floral designs are woven on strips of cloth with traditional colours using a loin-loom. These strips are then stitched together to make a bigger garment. The Mirijim is a traditional tribal design known for its intricacy and regality, and is usually done on mattresses, rugs and other floor coverings as a show of honour for visiting guests and dignitaries. The Bihuan is another custom sacred to Assamese society, where the new bride has to present a self-woven gamosa/towel to her groom as a symbol of her love and to the elders present as a token of respect. These towels are white in colour with various patterns at both ends. Flowers, foliage, geometric shapes, birds and animals are some of the common patterns used.