Sikkim has been one of the biggest producers of unique textiles since times of old. The story goes that in ancient times, the women of the Lepcha tribe in Sikkim used yarn that was spun out of the stinging nettle plant - locally called the sisnu plant - to weave clothes. Nowadays, cotton and woollen yarns are used to weave fabrics. These yarns are sometimes used together and are combined with synthetic colours or vegetable dyes to create distinctive shades and patterns. Although all the tribes of Sikkim occupy themselves with weaving, the Lepchas are the ones most famous for their handlooms and produce the majority of the fabrics in Sikkim, so much so that the Lepcha weaves are synonymous with the textile industry of Sikkim.
The Lepcha fabrics are locally called ‘Thara.’ They are woven on vertical standing looms with the help of a backstrap device. These looms are small in width. Although small in width, these looms are incredibly versatile and can be used to weave any type of design or pattern. Also called the loin loom, these looms are used exclusively by the womenfolk to make fabric of excellent quality. These looms are indigenous to the state of Sikkim and are used by the Lepcha women to make clothing for their families and clans. The frame used in these looms for weaving is made from bamboo or the type of wood available. Bamboo is usually preferred for its lightweight and portability. The patterns that can be woven on a loin loom are endless, given its ease of use and flexibility. Different colours and dyes are combined with traditional designs to make the Tharas which are then used to make their ethnic garments. Apart from their own clothing, the Tharas are used to make textiles like cushion covers, table mats, tray cloths, bags, belts, bedspreads and cushion covers to name a few.
One of the more popular garments made with the Tharas is the traditional coats for women. The base material used for weaving is mostly cotton yarn, whereas the motifs on the coat are woven with woollen yarn. Cotton is the raw material used to make most of the garments worn by the Lepchas, whereas some use sheep wool to make cozy blankets. The Lepchas rear sheep exclusively for wool and some also buy and source wool from their local traders. The woollen yarn is dyed with the preferred colours and set aside to dry for at least a week before it is put on the loom to be woven. The Lepchas use both synthetic colours and vegetable dyes, depending on the availability and requirement. Sheep wool used to be the raw material used for weaving dyed fabrics, but after the new mandate set by the Directorate of Handlooms and Handicrafts, cotton and acrylic are also being used now, since they hold the dye better, resulting in attractive colour combinations and designs. The main colours used in the weaves of the Lepchas are white, black, green, yellow and red. These are the colours used frequently to create both plain and intricately patterned fabrics.
